面食文化之南北面條的不同

掛面(mian)重點(dian)(dian)用麥(mai)子全麥(mai)粉生產，于面(mian)發現之間(jian)，飯、粥為(wei)(wei)最廣泛中國有(you)人(ren)(ren)(ren)的粗(cu)糧，但當場發現后，掛面(mian)國際地(di)位(wei)即跟米食平起(qi)平坐。東北(bei)人(ren)(ren)(ren)主以(yi)面(mian)點(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)核心糧；廣東地(di)區(qu)人(ren)(ren)(ren)雖倚重吃(chi)面(mian)條(tiao)，但面(mian)點(dian)(dian)亦(yi)變成為(wei)(wei)重要(yao)小吃(chi)店。

男方(fang)北方(fang)二地(di)(di)之面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)實都(dou)有(you)著天(tian)壤之別。男方(fang)的(de)(de)(de)“面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”就是指(zhi)小麥粉制(zhi)得的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，以蛋(dan)(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)主，用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)因此章魚可是鴨鵝蛋(dan)(dan)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)身幼(you)(you)、面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)質(zhi)爽(shuang)口彈牙。在這其中生(sheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皆有(you)之。在悉尼極用(yong)戶(hu)的(de)(de)(de)歡迎詞的(de)(de)(de)云吞面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)底(di)是生(sheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。生(sheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)早時主要產地(di)(di)東莞，以章魚或鴨蛋(dan)(dan)做面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，章魚令面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)身覺得爽(shuang)口；鴨蛋(dan)(dan)則令生(sheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)改變蛋(dan)(dan)香(xiang)。好的(de)(de)(de)生(sheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)通常是指(zhi)銀絲幼(you)(you)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要幼(you)(you)，煮(zhu)后呈黃綠色，然而要爽(shuang)口彈牙，必須能(neng)太硬亦(yi)必須能(neng)太軟(ruan)，而最重要要的(de)(de)(de)是，生(sheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)煮(zhu)后必須帶堿水味(wei)。

華(hua)北(bei)地(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)的“面(mian)(mian)”則(ze)意指(zhi)春小麥磨(mo)好的粉，鮮手(shou)(shou)工(gong)掛面(mian)(mian)多(duo)不需要蛋，用之以堿水(shui)，加入(ru)到堿水(shui)可令鮮手(shou)(shou)工(gong)掛面(mian)(mian)開始(shi)變得(de)簡易(yi) 吸收(shou)，故(gu)鮮手(shou)(shou)工(gong)掛面(mian)(mian)形成華(hua)北(bei)地(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)人最主要食糧之故(gu)。跟廣(guang)東地(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)的相對，華(hua)北(bei)地(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)鮮手(shou)(shou)工(gong)掛面(mian)(mian)面(mian)(mian)較粗(cu)，面(mian)(mian)質軟滑韌性(xing)。如(ru)在華(hua)北(bei)地(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)如(ru)說“要面(mian)(mian)”，董事(shi)長反而會索取全麥粉；而在廣(guang)東地(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)，賣的則(ze)會是已精加工(gong)好的鮮手(shou)(shou)工(gong)掛面(mian)(mian)。

北方人以面為主食，因而面食較重其質和量。北方人做面常加時令葉類鮮蔬，佐以生蔥、生蒜、香菜等調味，味重油多，配料及湯相對較咸，主要是驅寒，飯量大的也可配饅頭、燒餅。南方反之，因南方人以米飯作主食，面條為小吃或招待、迎合北方人口味，因小巧習慣喜以小碗盛放，但不放蔥姜、葉菜，喜歡放醬油、榨菜、明菜油，一般是掛面，外觀和口味對嗜好面條一族來說差強人意。

傳統化鮮面(mian)(mian)(mian)本來以(yi)每人必備巧制，由(you)和(he)粉、打面(mian)(mian)(mian)、牛肉(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan)或切面(mian)(mian)(mian)全(quan)用每人必備，但北(bei)邊及我(wo)(wo)國南(nan)部做面(mian)(mian)(mian)亦為政者不相(xiang)同，各具蘇州特色(se)。北(bei)邊最出色(se)的(de)牛肉(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan)，固名思義用力(li)(li)(li)拉制而成，牛肉(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan)要做得軟滑但有塑性，并(bing)非易(yi)事，需臂力(li)(li)(li)干拔，對的(de)工(gong)作力(li)(li)(li)度(du)有效控制要得宜(yi)，剛中帶(dai)柔，才會(hui)給出珍品。再看我(wo)(wo)國南(nan)部鮮面(mian)(mian)(mian)，卻重柔中帶(dai)剛，爽而不脆，的(de)關(guan)鍵亦在做面(mian)(mian)(mian)時(shi)的(de)的(de)工(gong)作力(li)(li)(li)度(du)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)很(hen)好(hao)后，回收利用人之長體的(de)彈跳力(li)(li)(li)力(li)(li)(li)以(yi)大竹壓之，面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)壓簿，第四弄成條。（銷量部 施文卿）